Men’s Pants survey


Men’s Pants survey

Apologies for the long wait on a new post- This semester is a hell of a busy time. The whole graduating business has taken up a lot of time. I’ll post my portfolio soon. Promise. In the meantime though, I’m doing some market research in regards to Pants. Please take a moment to fill out this survey. I’m targeting mostly men, but women can fill it out too.

Calling off Collection


I met with my design instructor and construction instructor after class today and made some very exciting changes to the direction of the rest of my time at AAU.

Primarily, we decided that I shouldn’t continue with Collection- the project I’ve been working on for the majority of this semester. This also means I won’t be doing the big school fashion show at the end of next semester.  While some people would be crushed at this news, I’m actually very excited.

For the last four weeks, I’ve not been super excited about continuing work on the collection I developed and had approved. The instructors wanted too many things to change. They were taking parts of the collection out that I was really excited about and making changes that were interesting but not really in line with my style and what I’m passionate about.  Mind you, this wasn’t out of malice, but because the collection as it was wasn’t totally coherent and had about 3 different directions it could go rather than just one. As a collection, it’d be totally successful if I had 30 looks, not just 6.   As a result, I’ve spent many restless nights struggling with an absence  of self confidence– something that’s super uncharacteristic of me.

Now that I’m not having to make 2 solid looks in muslin each week, I can focus more on building out a really kickass portfolio and making clothing that I’m more excited about rather than trying to please my school.  Look forward to more posts regarding new fun projects I’m working on and not so much foot dragging struggle. Currently in the cooker:  alternative active wear, denim and leather, brocades, silks, and linen….

more to come!

Fittings round 1-3


So, this is what a fitting for collection looks like:

I work for a week patterning and sewing together toilles, I take it into my design class on Wednesday afternoon. And with the help of my design and construction instructor, we pin, mark, cut apart, and otherwise modify each garment to fit into what is desired by them for my collection.

So we start with this:

(week 1)

Which turned into this wider, baggier version:

(Week 2)

And most recently into this:

(week 3)

Mind you, my instructor is notorious for changing his mind, wanting something different every time… so it’s hard to say what the next step will be. For now, I’m taking our latest fitting and turning the ugly baggy pants into more tailored, controlled baggy pants. We’ll see what happens.

The most difficult part of this is finding the happy medium between my ideas and style and their ideas and style. After this particular fitting, there was talk about many things: scraping my collection all together, re-designing garments to be more modern or more traditional, changing all color/fabric for something different, more interesting fabric stories.

I’ve been torn all week between continuing with this collection or dropping it entirely. Re-designing everything to be extra baggy and oversized like my design instructor wants.  Or starting completely over with a whole different collection and direction. We’re still working on it. Nothing is set in stone yet. But the likelihood of what you see in my pre-collection and what I have by the end of this semester being even vaugely the same is very slim.

Needless to say, all of the actions against #Occupy this week have made it really difficult to stay focused on my work. I spend many an hour reading, catching up and staying tuned to the events happening in SF, NY, OO, and the UC campuses. It’s something I care passionately about, and though I can’t be there in person, my thoughts are with this movement much of the time.

Stay tuned….

Pre-Collection Approved!


Yes Sir- That’s Right! After 7 solid weeks of insanity and one solid week of rest, my instructors approved my senior Pre-Collection.

For those of you scratching your heads, this is how it works:

On September 1, we begin designing our collection from scratch. We have 7 weeks to have research, 6 approved looks, full technical flats, and two sets of garments- one set in final fabric, one set in muslin- made for presentation. This breakdown is essentially what you’ll see in the photos I’m loading with this entry.

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Upon approval, We continue to make two full looks every two weeks, which we then fit to a model for adjustments. I’m going to post photos shortly of our Test-fit session and talk a little about the patterning process and garment building. At the end of the Semester, there’s another approval process (Collection Approval) where they give us the green light to make all garments in final fabrics…

But for now… Yay!!

Pre-Pre-Pre collection project


This is the second of three projects for my design class. Things are going alot smoother with my design process* these days… so I’m looking forward to the pre-pre and the pre collections** for next year.

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*Check out my flickr page on the right side of the screen to see my process books.

**Pre-Collection is essentially the collection the heads of my department approve for the final runway show… the count down begins!

Hand Tailored suit jacket


 

We just finished the first part of a three piece suit in my construction class.

This is a suit jacket that’s largely hand sewn. In any instance where mass-produced market would use fuse-able interfacing(glue), we sewed layers together by hand.  In the photos below, you’ll see my sewing needle sitting next to the stitches that hold the horsehair canvas to the backside of the lapel as well as the stitching on the collar.  I think the shoulder has 5 or 6 layers sewn in, one after another.

We start completely from scratch, drafting the pattern, cutting, then sewing. The full project took 7 weeks to complete. Materials include: 100% wool suiting material, Rayon Lining and Sleeve lining, cotton pocketing, Irish lenin collar, horsehair canvas front panel, collar felt, cotton shoulder padding and sleeve cap, and bias tape.

Sewing this together was a joy. I really loved all the hand stitching and the challenges associated with lining material.

We’re already on to the vest and the pants portion of this project. Photos soon!

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